Buildings and Structures of Exeter - O to Z

21, the Mint *
84 Longbrook Street(Harry's)
Bampfylde House *
Bedford House *
Bluemaids Hospital School *
City Wall
Cricklepit Mill *
Customs House
Deane Clark House *
Devon & Exeter Institution *
Eastgate and Eastgate House
Eastgate Arcade *
Guildhall *
Harlequins Centre
Heavitree City Hospital *
House That Moved *
Kings Wharf on the Quay
Larkbeare House *
Longbrook House (Rockfield) *
Magdalen Lepers Hospital *
Mols Coffee House *

Pinbrook House

This large house can be found in Harrington Lane, Pinhoe. It was built in 1679, at the same time as the Customs House on the quay and may have used the same brick making facilities. As a large house, there is evidence that it is modelled on Clarendon House in Piccadilly which was built in 1667. There is also reason to suggest that the house once had two wings projecting from the main block, although there is now no visible evidence.

Some sources say that the house was used by Charles II to garrison troops, soon after it was built. It has also been suggested that the window tax introduced by William III in 1696 led to some windows being blocked up. There are a large number of windows, so there may be some truth in that story.

In the 18th century, Sir John Elswill owned the property, along with 1,200 acres of land. It is said, that the house was again used as a garrison during the Napoleonic Wars. A later tithe map of 1840 shows the owner as Lady Freemantle, the daughter of Sir John Freemantle, who let it as a farmhouse. During the 1920's, the house went into a decline and was derelict by 1976, when it was restored. It is now a retirement home.

Polsloe Priory

This priory was also known as St Katherine's Priory. It was formed as a nunnery around about 1160. The original priory consisted of four main buildings around a quadrangle or cloister. At its dissolution by Henry VIII in 1536, three of the buildings, including the church and refectory were demolished.

The first buildings were of timber, but were quickly replaced by more substantial structures. The main buildings were rebuilt in the 14th-century and then the priory started to contract. The surviving building is thought to date from 1310 to 1330 and had upper guest rooms. It has a 13th-century fireplace and has two stone corbels, of the same age, one of a man's head and the other, a woman's both with carved head-dresses.

The deer-park for the Priory stretched as far as Mount Pleasant. The owners of the Exeter Brick and Tile Company, brothers A and H Bradbeer, purchased the Priory early in the 20th-century. When they realised its historical importance, they gave it to the city in 1934. It was used as a store and then a community centre. It was recently sold to a private buyer, but still seems to be used by the community.

The priory was excavated during 1976-77 by Exeter Archaeology. The original cob wall that surrounded the Priory still exists, and the visitor passes through an ancient entrance gate into the grounds.

Old Market Building - Topsham Central Garage

Central Garage, and the buildings on either side don't at first glance appear to be of much significance, and indeed, don't at first glance, appear to be related at all.

However, if you take a closer look, you will notice that the right hand building has two arches at the front, the left hand building three arches over the windows and doors. Looking behind the Central Garage sign, you can just discern two arches. The seven arches were once the front of the old market in Topsham. The arches were probably open to Fore Street. Dating from 1791, it was built by the Market House Trust and the rent used for other projects and charitable purposes in Topsham, such as the creation of the Goatwalk in 1910 for £325.

The upper storeys were a later addition, and traces of the original façade can be seen over the last arches on the right. In 1845, part was leased to William Clapp, and part retained for the towns fire engine and lock-up.

From 1866 the building under the left hand arches was converted in a police station, probably accounting for the extra floor. Behind the police station, beyond the small walled yard is a pitched roof building that was the town gaol. The present proprietor of Central Garage took on the business in 1970, when it ceased being a police station.

By 1897, the the remainder of the building was Thomas E Hopewell & Co, a furniture warehouse and by 1902, drapery was added to the shops stock. Thomas Hopewell was also the proprietor of T & H Gubb, ironmonger's, also of Fore Street.

The premises became Gould's Motor Garage & Works in 1915; they were also marine engineers. By 1939 the premises were the Topsham Garage, with Reginald Mingo as proprietor.

When the LDV or Home Guard was formed in Topsham, the local recruits used pitchforks, scythes and axes as improvised weapons. In the Autumn of 1940, First World War US rifles, bayonets and ammunition arrived for the Home Guard, and an office in the garage was requisitioned as an arms store and Guard House. Any reports of enemy paratroopers or other activity from the lookouts around Topsham, were reported to the Guard Room and then relayed to the Area Command - in the event, they had little to do. As previously stated, the present proprietor took over the garage in 1970, and it became Central Garage. The right hand building is now Jackson-Stops, estate agents.

Phoenix Arts Centre

Situated on the edge of the Norman motte of Rougemont Castle, at the top of Upper Paul Street, the Arts Centre has become an important part of Exeter's cultural life. The building was built, at a cost of £15,000, in 1911 for the University College of the South West. When the University moved up to its present site in 1955 the building was vacated.

It eventually became the Arts Centre. The centre had a major refit in 1999 with funds from the National Lottery. It now has two galleries, four workshop studios, a performance theatre and café and bar. There are regular drama, dance and arts courses in the studios. Over the entrance is a fine Phoenix Bird that flaps its wings on the hour (see Phoenix Bird in Exeter Places and Art).

The Phoenix Bird, animated sculpture can be seen over the entrance to the arts centre. 

Renslade House - Exe Bridge

This building vies for the honour of being the ugliest building in Exeter. What the town planners were thinking when they let the designs for this through, one can only imagine - maybe it was money! It was described  as 'a blot on the landscape' and 'a tragic development from Exeter City Council members' at the time.

Designed by G W Mills and Associates of London, and in association with Eric Levy and Partners from Manchester, and Stephenson Gills and Partners of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, the worst of urban 1960's city ugliness has been imported to Exeter. It is said that when it was designed, great consideration was given to the impact of the building on the city's profile. Is that why it masks very effectively the lovely slope up to Bartholomew street, with a plethora of interesting roofs. It destroyed Tudor Street and very effectively hid the Tudor House from the rest of Exeter. In addition, it planted an eyesore right next to the river and spoiled an area that had a necessary, but ugly road system imposed on it, which had at least opened up the remains of the medieval Exe Bridge, and provided a pleasant walk along the river.

Built of concrete and green glass panels at a cost of £750,000 in August 1971, the 10 storey block matches the 7ft height of the original developer, and of whom one can at least say, grew to that height naturally. The exterior has been tinkered with to reduce the impact of this building, but to little avail. Why didn't they tinker a little more and rip the monstrosity down.

In 2006  the building was sold to CBRE Investment Fund, who brought in Urbina of Bristol to asset-manage the office block. They have refurbished the vacant office suites and completely modernised the building's common areas including the entrances, corridors and stairwells and the main reception area. Natural England is one of the building's main tenants - not much natural about their premises and Urbina haven't done anything about the ghastly exterior.

Rougemont Castle

The Norman, Rougemont Castle was built on a knoll known as red hill, or rouge mont in Norman French, because of its red, volcanic rock. The Romans first fortified the position. The present castle was founded by Baldwin de Brionne after 1068, for William the Conqueror. The entrance is a square three storey gatehouse with an arched entrance that is the oldest non-ecclesiastical Norman arch in existence. It survived a siege by King Stephen in 1140, from a siege castle thrown up at Danes Castle, just to the north.

In Shakespeare's Richard III, the king recalls a premonition of his own death:

"Richmond - when last I was in Exeter,
The Mayor in courtesy showed me the castle,'
And called it - Rougemont: at which name I started,
Because a Bard of Ireland told me once,
That I should not live long after I saw Richmond."

There is a plaque by the gatehouse to Temperance Lloyd, Susannah Edwards, Mary Trembles and Alice Molland who were tried in the castle for witchcraft. They were found guilty and are the last people in England to be executed for the crime. They were hung in Heavitree in 1682 and 1685. At the base of the gatehouse can be found three canons which are stamped Spanish Armada. In 1683, the accounts of Christopher the Duke of Albemarle who was the Lord Lieutenant of Devon, indicate he paid £600 for repairs to the two drawbridges, the second being at an entrance at Northernhay. (D&CN&Q) Andrew Brice indicates in his Gazeteer of 1751 that the two drawbridges no longer existed.

The castle was a traditional venue for a court and in 1607, a Sessions House was constructed in the inner bailey. In 1773, this building was demolished and a Palladian style County Courthouse, designed by Philip Stowey, was built. His original design was more elaborate so James Wyatt was brought in by the authorities to reduce the cost of building, resulting in a more austere building. In 1895 the building was enlarged and again in 1905, when a neo-Palladian wing was added.

The interior of the castle has been used for some odd events. A sheep-shearing competition was once held in the grounds and it was the venue of the first Devon County Show. And for those interested in aviation, the first Balloon ascent  from the castle was made in 1848, and the first hot-air balloon ascent was made from the grounds in 1886 by a Monsieur St Croix.

A new Crown and County Court has been opened during 2004 at the eastern end of Southernhay, near Magdalen Street. A proposed future use for the castle buildings is as a hotel and pub complex.

Rougemont House

Built in 1769 by John Patch, a surgeon at the Devon and Exeter Hospital, or possibly his father, Rougemont House is situated just outside the entrance to Rougemont Castle in part of the moat and defences for the castle. The house was a simple affair, without the elaborate front facade and balcony to be found today.

The surrounding grounds were landscaped, in the 1790's, by Thomas Patch, John Patch's son. The wine merchant, and partner in the Exwick woollen mill of Banfield and Granger, Edmund Granger purchased the house and modernised it in 1810 by adding the two ground floor, bow fronted bays. The iron balcony was made by the firm of 'Iron' Sam Kingdon. He also built a Tuscan style entrance porch and then added stucco (rendered cement to you and me) to the walls. 

The house is now considered to be in Regency style rather than Georgian. Granger was advised by William Jackson, a local architect, painter and musician. A storm on 13 January 1828, blew down a tree in the garden, that was large enough to be mentioned in the Flying Post.

Grottos, rockeries and paths were added by the MP, Richard Somer-Gard who was the guiding light for building the Royal Albert Memorial Museum. After his death, his widow opened the gardens to the public during the 1870's. In 1912, the City Council purchased the grounds between the house and Northernhay Gardens. It has served as a school, and a library. The house was then used, from 1987, as a costume museum and is now the Connections Discovery Centre run by the Royal Albert Memorial Museum.

There is an Adam style fireplace from the old St John's Hospital School that was lost in the blitz, installed in the drawing room.

St David's Station - Bonhay Road

In 1844, the Bristol railway line designed by Brunel reached Exeter. The last link of the Bristol & Exeter Railway was completed and a new station, designed by Francis Fox, was built by Hoopers at Pennyroyal Fields, opposite Red Cow Village. A single span pitched roof, 360 ft by 132 ft covered the track and platforms - it was the largest in the country. It was named St David's Station, rather than the suggested alternative of Red Cow Station.

The present station, which retained Fox's roof spanning the platforms, was opened on 1 June 1864 at a cost of £27,000. The London & South Western line had recently reached Northernhay. Designed by Henry Lloyd, it was dressed with Bath stone. Kelly's Directory noted that Giuseppe Garibaldi, the father of modern Italy was the first person to pass through the station, on 25 May 1864 when he was 'received with great demonstration on the new platform by the citizens'. The station underwent enlargement and rebuilding in 1912-14 when Fox's 1844 roof was removed, and replaced with the present awning style roofing. A makeover in 1938 added 11 ft to the width and the GWR logo at the front.

The Great Western Hotel probably dates from 1864, or just after. In 1876 it was known as the Railway Hotel and then in 1923, the Trust House Hotel. Remnants of the first St David's Station are still visible from the lower end of Prince of Wales Road.

The legacy of broad gauge, can be seen when looking at the distance between the platforms at St David's, and the generous tunnel and bridge dimensions to accommodate the 7ft gauge, along the line. Brunel's railway shortened the London to Exeter journey time by stage coach in 1800 from 32½ hours, to 3 hours in 1900.

Tudor House, Tudor Street

This old house is one of the last of the old buildings to survive on Exe Island, in Tudor Street. There is some dispute about when it was built - some insist that it dates from Tudor times and some documentation suggests it was built in, or about 1660.

The original deeds of the house give the true age, for they state that it was built by Isaac Burche, a maltster, who died in 1683. However, the house passed on to the Gubbs in the 1670's, before Burche died. The centre coat of arms relate to the Gubbs family, while the right hand arms are those of the Leach family. The left hand coat of arms may be those of the Northmore family, owners in the 18th century.

In the mid 18th Century, Thomas Smith and his sisters who owned the house were forced to sell it through debt. The new owner had a daughter who married Robert Trewman, the founder of Trewman's Exeter Flying Post, and the house eventually came into his possession. Trewman's grandson sold the house in 1861 and it then began its slow decline.

In 1964, the building was being used as an electrical repair shop. It was in a very bad condition - Bill Lovell purchased it for £700 and spent the next 11 years and a further £60,000, restoring the building. Almost bankrupted, he offered the house to Exeter City Council in 1975 who refused. It was sold on the open market for £60,000. Bill was recognised for his work by winning a Civic Trust Award.

It has a timber front with oversailing storeys and locally manufactured brick for the side walls. The slates on the front and roof come from Delabole, in Cornwall; up until 1820 the whole of the front was covered in slate. There is a single newell post that rises through the four floors. It is said that there is a musket-ball embedded on one of the beams.

Wynards

A wealthy Exeter citizen of the 15th Century, William Wynard, a Recorder of Exeter, founded the Wynards Hospital in 1435, just outside the city wall, to provide homes for twelve poor and infirm people. He also founded the attached chapel of the Holy Trinity and Maison Dieu. The buildings were damaged in the Civil War by the construction of the city's defences, and restored in 1675.

In 1789, the almshouses were purchased by William Kennaway, a wealthy wine merchant based at Palace Gate. George Kennaway rebuilt them in 1856, and they owe more to the Victorian idea of medieval England than the real thing.

Edward Ashworth, the ecclesiastical architect and Harry Hems, the Exeter based sculptor were both involved in the restoration. There are several memorials to the Kennaways in the chapel, including a carved marble and mosaic work to Harriet Codrington (Codrington Street is named after her); Kennaways wife who died in 1861.

In 1914 each inmate received from 2s a week to 5s a quarter.

The almshouses came under the control of the Exeter Municipal Charities in 1950, who applied to demolish them in 1967. The Council stepped in and when the buildings became redundant in 1972, the city architect was brought in to convert them into a base for the Citizens Advice Bureau, and other charitable organisations. From Magdalen Street, Wynards presents a Heavitree red stone façade with a central doorway. The entrance opens into an internal, cobbled, courtyard.

The buildings were sold by the City Council in May 2001, and converted into 12 two and three bedroom dwellings and put up for sale in 2002. It was hoped that guided tours from the Redcoats would continue, but they do not appear to include the almshouses and chapel in their schedule. They are Grade II* listed buildings.

A Case of Piracy
It is interesting to note that William Wynard owed some of his fortune, which he used to endow the almshouses, to piracy. A Spanish barge was taken by pirates based in Exmouth. The authorities arrested one of the pirates, a victualler, on the vessel. On the way to the home of Baron Carewe, the men escorting the arrested pirate were attacked, and the merchant, who was travelling with the party, to whom the ships cargo belonged, fearing for his life, dropped the case. Later the case was resumed at the Court of Chancery, and at the hearing it was revealed that one of the recipients of the stolen cargo was William Wynard. He was not the only upstanding citizen of Exeter who gained from piracy at this time, with several mayors, merchants and aristocrats adding to their fortunes by such means.

Source: Piracy story - The Involvement of Exeter and the Exe Estuary in Piracy by  S Bhanji.