Places in Exeter

Blackaller and Head Weir

These weirs are situated right next to Bonhay Road - few will not have seen Blackaller weir in full flow after heavy rain. Head Weir, just above Blackaller Weir, was originally called Callabere Weir until the improvements to the river, when the Courtenay's lost their rights over the city, during the reign of Henry VIII. Constructed to provide water for Bonhay Mill on the site of the Mill on the Exe public house. Head Weir, is probably a thousand years old and provided water through a leat which created Exe Island.

In 1568 it was noted:

"The latter end of this year there was a severe frost, which was attended by a sudden thaw; in consequence of it great inundations were caused which did much damage, particularly to the bridges and weirs; Calabear Weir (now Head Weir) was entirely destroyed, but afterwards rebuilt in a much stronger manner."

Later in the 19th century, Jenkins described the two weirs thus:

"....and beneath it are two strong stone weirs, which turn the river into different Head Weir, leats, on which is situated the engine that supplies the city with water, many fulling, grist, and other mills, dye-houses, &c. a great accommodation to woollen and other manufacturers; the walk between the river and leat is not above six feet in breadth, and when the river is swelled by floods is awfully grand; the great expanse of water foaming over the weirs on the left hand, the lofty cliff, clothed with wood, (which is only separated from you by the leat) on the right, and the beautiful prospect in front of the bason of the river, with the adjoining meadows, excite a sensation in strangers that cannot be described."

In 1830 Bonhay Mill was converted to a paper mill. The bridge is the innovative Millers Crossing which opened in 2002. Just above Head Weir, there was a council run bathing area which was supervised by Frank Shooter, Hero of the Exe.

Broadgate

Also known as St Michael's Gate, this was the main entrance gate to Cathedral Close, and dates from 1286. Although it was one of the three widest gates leading into the close, it was still only 3 meters wide. In the 16th century, Hooker noted that it was sometimes called Fissand, meaning a narrow fissure. In the early 19th century, just before it was demolished it was described as a filthy quagmire. Like many gates in the city, it had accommodation built in - Broadgate was used for housing members of the cathedral staff including the main gatekeeper for the close, whose duties included removing undesirables, including females, from the close at night. In 1815, it was also the residence of the Cathedral Scavenger, who cleared animal dung and rubbish, and the Lamplighter.

Although one of the widest of the seven gates, it started to prove to be a hindrance to stage coaches entering the close heading to the Royal Clarence Hotel. The manager of the hotel petitioned the Cathedral authorities in the early 19th century to have the gate removed after a coach had hit the side of the gate, resulting in the horses panicking and breaking away to gallop along the road to the Royal Clarence leaving the passengers stranded.

On 28th December 1824 the gate was demolished. Broadgate was widened in 1833. Nowadays, we always think of Broadgate as the short street between Cathedral Close and the High Street. The old Tinley's teashop, now Pizza Express, occupies one corner of the old gate and has part of the original wall erected in 1286. Posts, marking the position of the gate, were installed soon after its demolition so that the Cathedral authorities could continue to claim jurisdiction over the Close. When Prince Charles visited in 1979, a ribbon was tied between the posts to symbolically represent a chain, which was once used to close Cathedral Close off with a chain, after the gate was removed. Also see Broadgate in streets.

Catacombs and Bartholomew's Cemetery

There had been a cemetery at All Hallows (Friernhay), Bartholomew Street for 200 years, before a scheme was put forward to open the southern slope of the Longbrook Valley as an extension and to create the catacombs for the wealthy of Exeter. The growth of the city had put a strain on the existing burial grounds, and the cholera epidemic of 1832 had shown a need for new facilities, outside the city wall.

The cemetery and catacombs were designed by Thomas Whitaker for the Improvement Commission at an estimated cost of £2,300. They were built by Henry Hooper between 1835 to 1837, at an eventual cost of £6,000. The building works suffered many problems, including failing foundations and the Improvement Commission and Whitaker were often in dispute. The original capacity of 1,400 was more than doubled when the number of catacombs was increased from 8 to 20. Within the cemetery, a dividing wall, which survives, was built between the Anglican and Nonconformist burials, at the instigation of the Bishop of Exeter.

It was the first cemetery in Britain to be funded by public, rather than private funds and was opened to much public fanfare, on the 200th anniversary of the consecration of the All Hallows Cemetery above.   

Tucked under the city wall, the catacombs were built to accommodate coffins in individual vaults on each side of a long, central passage. Although coffins were lowered from above to their resting place, a fine Egyptian facade was built along the front. It was a commercial disaster for between 1837 and 1883, only 11 internments were made. The City took over the venture and converted part of the unused vaults into a temporary mortuary.

The cemetery had 17,552 interments before it was closed in 1949. Samuel Wesley, organist and composer was buried there in 1877 and John Gendall, Exeter artist in 1865. The catacombs can be visited with a City Redcoat guide. See Exeter's Cemeteries

Danes Castle

The cholera outbreak of 1832 had proven to be a shock to the city council and steps were taken to acquire a wholesome water supply for the city. Pynes Water Works was opened in 1834, and between 1834 and 1840, there was built a holding reservoir on land behind the prison. The reservoir, measuring 200 ft by 200ft (60m), and 17 ft (5m) deep. It could hold 315,000 gallons of water, piped from Pynes.

It was known that there was a circular castle structure on the land, which was misinterpreted as being Danish in origin. At the time, they thought it was constructed by marauding Vikings in 1003. The reservoir was remodelled in 1993 and the castle uncovered to be investigated by Exeter Museums Archaeological Field Unit, and then landscaped. The archaeologists discovered that foundations for a wooden gatehouse had been dug, but never built, probably because the three month siege had finished.

The castle was in fact built by King Stephen in 1136, as an earthen fortification when he had Baldwin de Redvers, in Rougemont Castle under a three month siege. In the Middle Ages it was known as New Castle, while by 1700, it had been named Danes Castle. It is a Scheduled Monument.

Livery Dole

This is a triangle of land between Heavitree Road, Polsloe Road and Magdalen Road. From the Old English Leofhere who owned the land and dole, meaning a piece of land. Livery Dole was used as a place of execution for those who committed murder, witchcraft, heresy or treason. Thomas Benet, the Protestant Martyr was burnt at the stake at Livery Dole. Samuel Holmyard was found guilty of printing forged banknotes and hung there.

At the point of the triangle, where Magdalen Road and Fore Street, Heavitree meet, can be found a Victorian lamp post with an inscription that reads:

    CHARLES GEORGE GORDON
    26TH JANUARY 1885

General Gordon who was killed in the siege of Khartoum in 1885, was a close friend of the Heavitree vicar, Prebendery Barnes, father of Dame Irene Vanbrugh. Barnes was deeply upset at Gordon's death and paid for the memorial. General Gordon had family connections with Exeter and his father is buried in the St Thomas churchyard.
    
The small red sandstone chapel behind the lamp is dedicated to St Clare.

Trews Weir

Trews Weir In 1564-6 John Trew of Glamorgan cut a one and 3/4 mile channel which became the Exeter canal, the first such, in England. The canal was only 16ft wide and 3ft deep but it made it possible for barges to bypass the shallow and unreliable river. The St Leonard's Weir was replaced by Trews Weir to raise the river for feeding the canal. The weir also fed the machinery for the Trews Weir Paper Mill.

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