Bear Inn - South Street

This inn, which closed sometime in the early 19th Century, was one of the most important in Exeter. It was described as "Second in size to the New Inn (High St)" by Hoskins.

Now the site of the Sacred Heart Church on Bell Hill, South Street, the inn gave its name to Bear Street. It was first recorded in 1286, when the Cathedral Close was walled, and the gates were built. There is a record of it being rebuilt in 1481.

The name Bear, is a corruption or a pun on the name Bere - the inn was the town house of the Abbots of Tavistock who ran one of the richest abbeys in Devon from the tin, lead and silver mines at Bere Alston. In 1539, it was described as "le Bere Inne alias Bere" in a lease from the last abbot to Edward Brygeman and his wife Jane for a period of 60 years.

In 1545, after the dissolution, the freehold was granted by Henry VIII to William Abbot. It went through a series of owners, including a former Mayor of Exeter. In 1566 the following Last Will stated:

"William Buckenam Clerk; (sometime Mayor of this City) by his Last Will and Testament, dated 8 Elizabeth, Anno Domini 1566, bequeathed to this Chamber One full Moity (half portion) or Halfendeal of all that Tenement, with the Appurtenances commonly called the 'Bear-Inn in South, gate-street for the Benefit of the said Alms-house; which at present is stated out under the yearly Rent of Ten Pounds."

It was common in the 16th century for members of the City Chamber (Council), and other wealthy individuals, to leave money or property to the Chamber to be used for supporting the poor. The income was then used to operate the house of correction (workhouse), provide grain at times of high prices, or meals either weekly, or on Saints days. In the above will, the rent was to be used to benefit an almshouse.

The inn had a great window with a painted glass scene depicting the coat of arms of Tavistock Abbey and its founder, Ordger, and the figure of a man standing on a bridge, thought to refer to the already mentioned, Edward Brygeman, who was also the warden of the Exe Bridge. The building was described as "...built with freestone, of excellent gothic workmanship, decorated with fretwork panels." In one corner was a large cabossed (head) statue of a bear clutching a ragged staff between its paws. The Bear is a heraldic animal based on the European brown bear, the type that was hunted and baited in medieval times.

The Civil War

During the civil war when Exeter was under the control of Parliament in 1642/3 supporters of the King were in danger if they expressed opposition to the authorities. A musician named George Gallop was investigated for encouraging the singing of a 'scandalous song' about members of the House of Commons, in the Bear Inn. It is likely that the Bear was frequented by Royalists as many in Cathedral Close including most clergy were anti Parliament and the Bear Inn was close to the Bear Gate.

An early mention in Andrew Brice's Post-master, was a notice for a sale in April 1721 of 'Valuable Books in Divinity, History, Law, Physick, & c.... will be sold, by way of Auction, at the Bear-Inn in Southgate-street'.

Carrier Services

Through the 18th Century, the Bear became an important terminus for carrier services around Devon and beyond, and it was noted for the number of packhorses it could accommodate. The last owner was Simon Phillips from 1779 and his wife Mary from 1796 - the inn was in decline and it would appear that Russell's, the carrier service used the inn from around 1800 on an increasing basis. Eventually, Russell's carrier service took over the premises and it closed as an inn by 1825. Russell's remodelled the buildings to suit their business, and heavily laden wagons would leave for both local and long haul destinations, with a regular service to London. Robin Russell became wealthy from his business, built a house on Exmouth quay, called Russell House where he died in 1822.

The Bear Inn was eventually torn down and replaced by the Sacred Heart Church that dates from 1885. In a French Gothic style, it used a 15th-century window from the Bear Inn on the staircase leading to the choir loft.

On the opposite corner of Bear Street stood the Bear Tower, a 14th Century building which served as a house from the 19th Century. It was damaged during the May 1942 blitz and stood as a ruin until 1966 when it was removed and replaced by a planted space.

The Bear Inn at 9 South Street

In the 19th Century there was a second Bear Inn in South Street. Situated further up South Street, on the same side, it was part of the College of the Vicars Choral. The inn was converted from the kitchens - in fact, the College Kitchen appears in two early directories from 1822 with Susan Ford and 1830 with William Hely Smith. After that date, the establishment is named the Bear Inn, and for many years was run by Stephen Compton, and then his wife. It was photographed in 1871 when it was in the process of being demolished.

Source - Samuel Izacke 1731 , Robert Dymond, W G Hoskins, Peter Thomas, Todd Gray/Hooker, trade directories, Exeter 1540-1640 by Wallace MacCaffrey, and Loyalty and Locality by Mark Stoyle.
© 2005 David Cornforth - not to be used without permission.