St Mary Major - Cathedral Yard

A monastery or minster in what is known as Cathedral Close was established late in the 7th century. St Boniface who was born in Crediton was educated in this monastery in AD 680 before travelling to Germany. In 1003, the Vikings attacked Exeter and burnt down the building, only for it to be rebuilt a few years later. Soon after, the Bishop who was established in Crediton, was having problems with security after raids from Danish raiding parties. Bishop Leofric gained permission from William I to move the 'Bishop's stool' to the walled Exeter, and the minster became the cathedral. In 1114, Bishop Warelwast, nephew of the Conqueror, started building a new, vast Cathedral church to the south east.

In the years after the new Cathedral was complete, the old minster became the church of St Mary Major. The tower was Saxon in origin, while over the north entrance was a small tablet representing St Lawrence in a state of Martyrdom, on a gridiron. The nave was separated from the chancel by a richly carved rood screen, and the gallery was ornamented with round-headed arches and a row of angels. The church was reseated in 1816.

When the 16 year old Catherine of Aragon was enroute from Spain to marry Arthur, the eldest son of Henry VII in 1501, she stayed at the Deanery, close to St Mary Major. The weather was very windy and the vane on the top of the church '...did so whistle that the princess could not sleep' – a workman was ordered to climb the tower and pull it down. In 1581 the tower was lowered and again in 1768.

The New Church

The Victorians decided that the old church had had its day, and in 1865 it was demolished, along with part of the Vicars Choral buildings that were alongside. A new church, designed by Edward Ashworth was built on the old foundations, at a cost of £7,000. Much of the stonework from the old church was recycled with quoins and dressings of Bath and Chudleigh stone; the columns of the aisle arcade were from Chudleigh black and Ogwell red marble. It had a capacity of 500. The spire was 151 ft high and contained a single bell cast by T Bilbie in 1794. It was consecrated in December 1867.

In the 20th century, the Lutyen's designed Devon War Memorial was placed close to St Mary Major and the car started to invade the Close. Apart from St James Chapel in the Cathedral, the Globe Hotel and a cottage on the opposite side of the Close, the area was largely unscathed during the 1942 bombing.

Towards the end of its ecclesiastical life, attendances fell. In the late 1960s, Methodists from the Mint which was being rebuilt, temporarily used the church for their services. It was decided that St Mary Major was no longer viable and in 1971 it was demolished, only to expose a hidden surprise, for beneath the church were found some ancient Saxon burials, the foundations of the old minster and a Roman Bath House dating from the 1st century. After the archaeological excavations were complete, the site was closed and grassed over, leaving a lovely, open area leading to the west front of the Cathedral.

The register for the two churches start from 1561.

Sources: Whites 1850, Kelly's 1897